tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28226699.post114780943874595835..comments2022-03-29T13:20:23.438-07:00Comments on DIY IR Remote Control Repeater: Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger12125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28226699.post-24214108480875708912017-09-12T06:17:57.488-07:002017-09-12T06:17:57.488-07:00Sirs; is there anyone that has a copy of the '...Sirs; is there anyone that has a copy of the 'DIY IR Remote Control Repeater', source code that I can have a copy of? Thanks for any replies....<br />Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02034864699264374628noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28226699.post-42209862324443751312014-07-01T10:04:42.097-07:002014-07-01T10:04:42.097-07:00Bum link for the source code like someone mentione...Bum link for the source code like someone mentioned above.Johnhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10751352971513073098noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28226699.post-32646028806282261862014-03-09T17:06:35.732-07:002014-03-09T17:06:35.732-07:00I couldn't download the code.I couldn't download the code.G3rard05https://www.blogger.com/profile/10715622048770326382noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28226699.post-58429296284529624152011-09-26T03:27:49.554-07:002011-09-26T03:27:49.554-07:00I've loaded the code into my 16F877A chips and...I've loaded the code into my 16F877A chips and found it works for all my infrared controllers. However for some reasons I have enabled timer0 interrupt for measuring time interval and the repeater was turned working for only some controller. It does not works is for my Philips DVD player. Is there any hints how I can tackle the problem.Edencirclehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06981572242451351377noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28226699.post-33999568281556925992007-05-29T08:01:00.000-07:002007-05-29T08:01:00.000-07:00No, it does not hook directly to the computer. It...No, it does not hook directly to the computer. It hooks up to an in-circuit programming connector on a PIC programmer. There are many of these available. Some attach to a parallel port and are really inexpensive, and others attach to a USB port. Just do a Google search for "pic programmer" and make sure it supports the type of PIC used in the project. I think mine is the PRO40 model. The pins on the PIC prototype board and the programmer are labeled.John Sevinskyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11826043035697473681noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28226699.post-50740834363209209202007-05-28T19:59:00.000-07:002007-05-28T19:59:00.000-07:00John,very interesting design. Please forgive the d...John,<BR/>very interesting design. <BR/>Please forgive the dumb questions but I am an electronics neophyte:<BR/>To program the device with the compiled code I assume the 5 pin connector on the board is hooked up to a serial connector on the computer used to upload the code?<BR/>If so, what are the pinouts?<BR/>If not, what is the hookup?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28226699.post-64678040155797792332007-05-01T06:50:00.000-07:002007-05-01T06:50:00.000-07:00It's a 3.5mm jack that you can plug in an optional...It's a 3.5mm jack that you can plug in an optional IR emitter in case you don't want to use the built-in emitters.John Sevinskyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11826043035697473681noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28226699.post-53581570793386885452007-04-30T17:53:00.000-07:002007-04-30T17:53:00.000-07:00I just got my order and I'm surprised to see an RC...I just got my order and I'm surprised to see an RCA connector on the back of the device. Any idea what is it for? There are 3 leads connecting it to the main board: white, red and a resistor.Igorhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01540135630353343587noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28226699.post-6228876516726322562007-04-16T06:04:00.000-07:002007-04-16T06:04:00.000-07:00Actually, if you saw it, you wouldn't be confused ...Actually, if you saw it, you wouldn't be confused by the pinout descriptions. After you cut off the connector at the end of the cable, hook the red and/or green to 12V, the yellow and/or blue to ground. The output or the IR receiver is the white wire. The input to the IR blaster is the black wire. DO NOT supply a solid high signal to this line, or you WILL burn up the IR LEDs. The red and green are internally tied together, as are the yellow and blue.John Sevinskyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11826043035697473681noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28226699.post-11983149585760919642007-04-15T20:11:00.000-07:002007-04-15T20:11:00.000-07:00That's great. I'm going to order a bunch. Can you,...That's great. I'm going to order a bunch. Can you, please, clarify the correct pinout of the "mystery" device - the comments there (on the seller's site) are a bit confusing.Igorhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01540135630353343587noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28226699.post-60337367492915187022007-04-12T09:54:00.000-07:002007-04-12T09:54:00.000-07:00I replaced all of my sensors with the All Electron...I replaced all of my sensors with the All Electronics Mystery IR Device. They work great!<BR/><BR/>I've noticed that if you have a bare IR sensor module, they don't work very well if they are in a bright room. They like to be enclosed in a box with an IR filter in front of them.John Sevinskyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11826043035697473681noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28226699.post-40705981465367061782007-04-12T09:12:00.000-07:002007-04-12T09:12:00.000-07:00What kind of IR sensor have you used? I've tried ...What kind of IR sensor have you used? I've tried your device with the Sharp GP1U52X IR sensor (once was sold in RadioShack) and the results are not reliable at all and only if I to put a remote control 2-3 inch in front of the sensor.Igorhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01540135630353343587noreply@blogger.com